The neat little town of GALENA , a few miles short of both Iowa and Wisconsin in the far northwest corner of Illinois, can have changed little since its nineteenth-century heyday. Thanks to its sheltered location just a few miles up the Galena River, it was a major port of call for Mississippi River steamboats. These days the only traffic it gets are the day-trippers who come to admire the gentle crescent of Main Street, tucked in behind an immaculate grassy levee. Its impeccab... [More]