ST ASAPH (Llanelwy), some eighteen miles east of Conwy along the A55, ranks as Britain's second-smallest "city" after St David's in Pembrokeshire, and its cathedral (daily 8am-dusk) is the country's smallest, no bigger than many village churches. It was founded around 570 by St Kentigern, the patron saint of Glasgow, and takes its name from the succeeding bishop, St Asaph. Both are commemorated in the easternmost window in the north aisle. From 1601 until his death in 1604, the bishopric was held by William Morgan , whose grave under the presbytery has gone unmarked since Giles Gilbert Scott's substantial restoration in the 1870s. Morgan was responsible for the translation of the first Welsh-language bible in 1588, replacing the English ones used up until that time. Over 25 years, he and three other clergymen produced a translation so successful that the Privy Council decreed that a copy of Y Beibl should be allocated to every Welsh church, thereby setting a standard for prose and codifying the language. Without his efforts, many claim, Welsh would have died out. A thousand Morgan bibles were printed, of which only nineteen remain, one of them displayed in the north transept along with notable prayer books and psalters.

Buses stop right outside the cathedral. The best central rooms are at the Kentigern Arms , towards the bottom of the High Street (tel 01745/584157; £50-60). The nicely furnished, non-smoking Chalet , The Roe (tel 01745/584025; £40-50), is a quarter of a mile away - across the river bridge then right - while the plush Plas Elwy , The Roe (tel 01745/582263; £60-70), is further down the same road. St Asaph's best food is served at the moderately priced Barrow Alms , High Street (tel 01745/582260), followed by the bar meals at the Kentigern Arms , which is the most alluring pub .