KELSO , ten miles or so downstream from Melrose, at the confluence of the Tweed and Teviot, grew up in the shadow of its now-ruined Benedictine abbey (April-Sept Mon-Sat 9.30am-6pm, Sun 2-6pm; Oct-March Mon-Sat 9.30am-4pm, Sun 2-4pm; free), once the richest and most powerful of the Border abbeys. Unfortunately, the English savaged Kelso three times in the first half of the sixteenth century: the last (and by far the worst) assault was part of the "Rough Wooing... [More]