At CHOLLERFORD , around four miles north of Hexham, a bridge crosses the North Tyne river, overlooked by the swanky Swallow George Hotel (tel 01434/681611, ; £110-150). Two thousand years ago, the main river crossing was a little way downstream, half a mile west of present-day Chollerford, where Chesters Roman Fort (daily: Easter-Sept 10am-6pm; Oct 10am-5pm; Nov-Easter 10am-4pm; £2.90; EH), otherwise known as Cilurnum, was b... [More]