After spending a few days in the North Wales rural hinterland, BANGOR , across the bridges from Anglesey, makes a welcome change. It is not big, but as the largest town in Gwynedd and home to Bangor University, it passes in these parts for cosmopolitan. The students decamp for the summer, leaving only a trickle of visitors to replace them. Bangor is a hotbed of passionate Welsh nationalism, hardly surprising in such a staunchly Welsh-speaking area, and it's a dramatic change fr... [More]