With regular bus services to the three big sites of northern Estremadura - Alcobaça, Batalha and Fátima - LEIRIA makes a handy centre for excursions. The chief sight in Leiria itself is the Castle (Mon-Fri 9am-5.30/6.30pm, Sat & Sun 10am-5pm; ?0.90), incorporating an elegant royal palace with a magnificent balcony high above the River Lis. At the heart of the old town, Praça Rodrigues Lobo is surrounded by beautiful buildings and arcades. The tourist office (daily: summer 10am-1pm & 3-7pm; winter 2-6pm; tel 244 814 748) and bus station are on opposite sides of a park overlooking the river in the modern city centre. The train station is about 4km out of town, with a connecting bus service. For accommodation , check the pensions such as Pensão Berlinga , Rua Miguel Bombarda 3D (tel 244 823 846; £10-15/$16-24/?18-27), and restaurants (some offering rooms) around Praça Rodrigues Lobo and on narrow side streets such as Rua Mestre Aviz and Rua Miguel Bombarda. There's also a fancy hostel with a good atmosphere at Largo Cândido dos Reis 9 (tel 244 831 868; doubles £10-15/$16-24/?18-27, dorms £5-10/$8-16/?9-18). As for restaurants , try the seafood at Jardim , by the tourist office, or real Portuguese cuisine - slightly more expensive, but worth it for the large portions - at Montecarlo , Rua Dr Correia Mateus 32-34.