The capital of its province, and indeed of northern Lazio as a whole, VITERBO is easily the region's most historic centre, a medieval town that during the thirteenth century was once something of a rival to Rome. It was, for a time, the residence of popes, a succession of whom relocated here after friction in the capital. Today there are some vestiges of its vanquished prestige - a handful of grand palaces and numerous medieval churches, enclosed by an intact set of medieval walls. The town is a well-kept place and refreshingly untouched by much tourist traffic but only really worth staying in if you're keen to visit the surrounding area. If you aren't, it's worth knowing that buses and trains run frequently from Rome (buses are fastest) and you can comfortably see the town in a day.