VIAREGGIO , 22km northwest of Pisa, is a large and once-elegant nineteenth-century resort, which continues to aim - with limited success - for a well-heeled clientele. It has its attractions, with a fair amount of nightlife (including big-name concerts and hot dance clubs) complemented by some neat Art Deco buildings along Passeggiata Margherita. But the beaches are private and charge upwards of L25,000/?12.91 for admission, and in season the hotels are either full or demand [More]