RAPALLO is a highly developed resort town - three times bigger than Santa Margherita - with an expanse of glass-fronted restaurants and plush hotels crowding around a south-facing bay. Earlier this century it was a backwater, and writers in particular came for the bay's extraordinary beauty, of which you now get an inkling only early in the morning or at dusk. Max Beerbohm lived in Rapallo for the second half of his life, and attracted a literary circle to the town; Ezra Pound wrote... [More]