The ancient, narrow-laned village of
PORTOVÉNERE
sits astride a spit of land on the very tip of the southwestern arm of the bay, blessed with breathtaking views, a memorably tranquil atmosphere and a string of three islets just offshore, each smaller and rockier than the last. The
bus
ride from La Spezia is a frenetic affair, with some hair-raising bends, but it gives fine views of the bay and the islands; however, the views are just as good from the
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