ORVIETO , out on a limb from the rest of Umbria, is perfectly placed between Rome and Florence to serve as a historical picnic for tour operators. Tourists flood into the town in their millions, drawn by the Duomo , one of the greatest Gothic buildings in Italy. But once its facade and Signorelli's frescoes have been admired, the town's not quite as exciting as guides and word of mouth make out. This is partly to do with the gloominess of the dark volcanic rock (tuf... [More]