GENOA ( Genova in Italian) is "the most winding, incoherent of cities, the most entangled topographical ravel in the world." So said Henry James, and the city is still marvellously eclectic, full of pace and rough-edged style. Sprawled behind the huge port - Italy's largest and an increasingly popular stopoff for international cruise liners - is a dense and fascinating warren of medieval alleyways, a district which has more zest than all the coastal resor... [More]