GARDA is a lively, flourishing resort, popular with Italians as well as foreigners, and the evening passeggiata along its tree-lined prom is good fun if you're into people-watching. Not long ago it was a fishing village, although now the narrow windy alleys and cottages of its old centre are studded with souvenir shops and snack bars. Even the fifteenth-century Loggia della Losa , originally a dock for the palace behind, is now a gelateria.

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