IERÁPETRA is a bustling modern supply centre for the region's farmers. It also attracts a fair number of package tourists and not a few backpackers looking for work in the prosperous surrounding agricultural zone, especially out of season. The tavernas along the tree-lined seafront are scenic enough and the EU blue-flagged beach stretches a couple miles east. But as a town, most people find it pretty uninspiring, despite an ongoing modernization programme which has cleaned up the centre and revamped the seafront. Although there has been a port here since Roman times, only the Venetian fort guarding the harbour and a crumbling Turkish minaret remain as reminders of better days. What little else has been salvaged is in the one-room Archeological Museum (Tues-Sat 8am-3pm; ?1.50) near the post office.

The town hall ( dhimarhío ) on the main square Platía Kanoupáki, or the library next door, should be able to provide a copy of the detailed town map (but not much else) which will help you find your way around. If you want to stay, head up Kazantzákís from the chaotic bus station, and you'll find a friendly welcome and good-value apartment-style rooms at Rooms Popi at no. 27 (tel 08420/24 289; up to ?24), or equal comfort in the nearby Cretan Villa , Lakérdha 16 (tel & fax 08420/28 522, www.cretan-villa.com ; ?24-33), a beautiful 180-year-old house. More central and economical is the Hotel Ersi , Platía Eleftherías 20 (tel 08420/23 208; up to ?24), which will also rent you a seafront apartment nearby for not much more than the cost of a room. The cheapest rooms option is Rent Rooms Nikos , Ioannidou 4, in the old town (tel 08420/23 208; up to ?24), close to the Gorgona taverna. You'll find places to eat and drink all along the waterfront, the better places such as Taverna Napoleon and Gorgona being towards the Venetian fort. Nightlife centres on a clutch of clubs, bars and fast-food places along central Kyrba, behind the promenade. Ierápetra's internet café , Orfeas (?3 per 30min), is at Koundourioútou 25, just north of the museum, and serves good breakfasts.