The overwhelming proximity of the mountains, combined with the pervasive eucalyptus and spicy scent of the maquis , give PORTO , 30km south of Calvi, a uniquely intense, loaded atmosphere that makes it one of the most interesting places to stay on the west coast. Except for a watchtower built here by the Genoese in the second half of the sixteenth century, the site was only built upon with the onset of tourism since the 1950s; today the village is still so small that it can become claustrophobic in July and August, when overcrowding - thanks to predominantly German tourists - is no joke. Off-season, the place becomes eerily deserted, so you'd do well to choose your times carefully; the best months are May, June and September.

The crowds and traffic jams tend to be most oppressive passing the famous Calanche , a huge mass of weirdly eroded pink rock just southwest of Porto, but you can easily sidestep the tourist deluge in picturesque Piana , which overlooks the gulf from its southern shore, or by heading inland from Porto through the Gorges de Spelunca . Forming a ravine running from the sea to the watershed of the island, this spectacular gorge gives access to the equally grandiose Forêt d'Aïtone , site of Corsica's most ancient Laricio pine trees and a deservedly popular hiking area. Throughout the forest, the river and its tributories are punctuated by strings of piscines naturelles (natural swimming pools) - a refreshing, tranquil alternative to the beaches hereabouts, which tend to be cramped in peak season. If you're travelling between Porto and Ajaccio, a worthwhile place to break the journey is the clifftop village of Cargèse where the two main attractions are the Greek church and spectacular beach.