LANNION , set amid plummeting hills and stairways, is a historic city with streets of medieval housing and a couple of interesting old churches - but it's also a centre for a burgeoning and extremely high-tech telecommunications industry, and one of modern Brittany's real success stories, hence its rather self-satisfied nickname, ville heureuse or "happy town". In addition to admiring the half-timbered houses around the place de Général-Leclerc and along rue des Chapeliers , it's well worth climbing from the town up the 142 granite steps which lead to the twelfth-century Templar Église de Brélévenez . This church was remodelled three hundred years later to incorporate a granite bell tower, and the views from its terrace are quite stupendous.