If you're heading south to Conches from Rouen, you follow first the River Eure, and then its tributary the Iton, passing through ÉVREUX , capital of the Eure département . It's hardly an exciting place, but an afternoon's wander in the vicinity of the cathedral - a minor classic with its Flamboyant exterior decoration and original fourteenth-century windows - and the ramparts alongside the Iton river bank is pleasant.

The old Biche , at 9 rue St-Joséphine on place St-Taurin at the edge of town (tel 02.32.38.66.00; under 160F/?24; closed Sun in July & Aug, Sun evening Sept-June), is a strange but splendid Belle Époque hotel , with a lurid pink interior, a triangular dining room and even some triangular bedrooms. In its restaurant , 135F/?20.58 will buy you a magnificent meal of oysters braised in cider and a garlicky seafood pot au feu , to the musical accompaniment of an unlikely assortment of funk and disco classics.