ÉTRETAT , 20km west from Fécamp towards Le Havre, is a very different kettle of fish to Fécamp. Here the alabaster cliffs are at their most spectacular - their arches, tunnels and the solitary "needle" out to sea will doubtless be familiar from tourist brochures - and the town itself has grown up simply as a pleasure resort. There isn't even a port of any kind: the seafront consists of a sweeping unbroken curve of concrete above a shingle beach.

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