BLOIS , the former seat of the dukes of Orléans, is a handsome town with much character. Its biggest drawback is the modern town around the centre, and particularly the broad, fast-moving boulevard that rings its château as if it were a mere traffic island rather than a sensational piece of architecture. There are, however, plenty of places around place Victor-Hugo that offer excellent views of the exterior of the building, Italian loggias and all, and it's worth braving the traffic for the pleasure of a non-guided visit around rooms steeped in power and intrigue.

If you want to get out into the countryside, head for one of the several stretches of woodland around Blois, which include the Forêt de Blois to the west of the town on the north bank of the Loire, the Parc de Chambord and the Forêt de Boulogne , around the Château de Chambord, further upstream. And if you haven't yet tired of châteaux, you have a choice of several fine examples within easy reach of the town.