A small but prosperous and surprisingly industrial town of around 12,000 people, AUBENAS sits in the middle of the southern part of the Ardèche département high up on a hill overlooking the middle valley of the River Ardèche. It is 91km southeast of Le Puy and 42km west of Montélimar. With a character and non-tourist-dependent economy of its own, it makes a much better base than places further downstream around Vallon-Pont-d'Arc, with their nightmarish crowds.

The central knot of streets with their cobbles and bridges, occupying the highest point of town around place de l'Hôtel-de-Ville , have great charm, particularly towards place de la Grenette and place 14-Juillet. Place de l'Hôtel-de-Ville is dominated by the old feudal château , from which the local seigneurs ruled the area right up until the Revolution (guided tours: April-June & Sept Tues & Thurs-Sat tour at 2pm; July & Aug daily 11am-5pm; Oct & Dec-March Tues, Thurs & Sat tour at 2pm; 20F/?3.05). There's a magnificent view of the Ardèche snaking up the valley below from under an arch beside the castle, as there is from the end of bd Gambetta 200m downhill, where the tourist office is located on the corner (July & Aug daily 9am-12.30pm & 1.30-7pm; rest of year Mon-Sat 9am-noon & 2-6pm, Sun 10am-noon; tel 04.75.89.02.03, ot.aubenas.ardeche@en-france.com ).

For somewhere to stay , it's hard to beat the old-fashioned Hôtel des Négociants , right next to the château on place de l'Hôtel-de-Ville (tel 04.75.35.18.74; under 160F/?24; closed Oct), which does nourishing meals from 42F/?6.40. A good alternative is Hôtel l'Orangerie , at 7 allées de la Guingette (tel 04.75.35.30.42, fax 04.75.93.01.03; 220-300F/?34-46), in a fairly quiet location just outside the old town. There's a municipal campsite on Route de Lazuel (tel 04.75.35.18.15). Cafés and brasseries line boulevard de Vernon on the south side of town; for fancier and more expensive places to eat , try Le Fournil , 34 rue du 4-Septembre, at the end of Béranger-de-la-Tour, in the heart of the old town (closed Sun evening & Mon; from 98F/?14.94), or Le Chat Qui Pêche , nearby on place de la Grenette (closed Tues & Wed except in July & Aug; from 98F/?14.94).