ALBI , 77km and an hour's train ride northeast of Toulouse, is a small industrial town with two unique sights: a museum containing the most comprehensive collection of Toulouse-Lautrec's work (Albi was his birthplace); and one of the most remarkable Gothic cathedrals you'll ever see. Its other claim to fame comes from its association with Catharism; though not itself an important centre, it gave its name - Albigensian - to both the heresy and the crusade to suppress it.

The town hosts three good festivals over the course of the year: jazz in May, theatre at the end of June/beginning of July, and classical music at the end of July/beginning of August. During July and August there are also free organ recitals in the cathedral (Wed 5pm & Sun 4pm).