Its distance from England and its historical position in the heartland of Welsh nationalism should make DOLGELLAU (pronounced "dol-geth-lye") the most Welsh of towns, but the town's granite architecture draws more from nineteenth-century England, with a dour series of small neo-Georgian squares all bearing English names. Victorian tourists came to marvel at Cadair Idris and the Mawddach Estuary - still the best policy, as the town has little to off... [More]