WATERFORD 's appearance from the river is deceptively grim: the bare and open stretch of water with its ugly grey wharves and cranes of the working port holds no suggestion of the lively city that lies beyond its dull quays. This is the commercial capital of the southeast, and yet it retains buildings from Viking and Norman times, as well as from the eighteenth century - all periods of past eminence. The web of narrow streets that grew up as the focus for commercial activity in the c... [More]